I’m deleting the theme switcher. Previously, the theme switcher would set a cookie to modify which theme Wordpress would serve you. Unfortunately, Cloudflare doesn’t cache on cookies, it caches on URL (with the query string). So…this caused some caching issues where if you had the wrong theme active and happened to access a page with that theme that wasn’t in the cache, it’d serve up the old cache.
Unfortunately, dealing with Wordpress on theme switching has proved an unforeseen headache while I try to focus on other aspects of the site, so I’m removing the alternate theme and theme switcher, and recommending the bookmarklet or browser extension approach. They work well and don’t impose a potential maintenance overhead.
Helpfully, m1el offered up a solution in their reddit post here. This bookmarklet works reasonably well; to use it, drag this link to your bookmarks bar and click it when you want to whiten the page: Make it Readable
Thanks for bearing with me while I iterate on this stuff!